Cafés and Food:
Allusions to the Great War in The Sun Also Rises
RIS Swiss School, Bangkok, Thailand
"This [novel] is about something [the war] that is already finished." There may be another war, but "none of it will matter particularly to this generation because to them the things that are given to people to happen have already happened."
—Ernest Hemingway in a discarded preface to The Sun Also Rises.
"Hemingway was disappointed throughout his life because The Sun Also Rises was the novel most often misread," Linda W. Wagner says; "it was the 'naturalistic' Hemingway, or at any rate, the 'realistic' novel."
By now, many readers see The Sun Also Rises preeminently as a novel of implication. One of its referential contexts is, of course, the mid-1920s (the story takes place in a fictional year that resembles 1924-25); and much critical attention has focused on decoding the story's subtle allusions to this period. But memories of the pre-story past have been noted, too. Almost always, they concern Jake's war wounding. For instance, Pamplona during fiesta time has been seen as a kind of war zone, and Jake's wounding is in a sense re-enacted when Cohn knocks him unconscious. More often, though, it is Jake's unmanning (as his war wounding was unmanning) emotional woundings by Brett Ashley throughout the story that have been seen in these terms.
But implied remembrances of the past involve more than Jake's own wounding. They concern the historical past, too; they concern what has "already happened," not only to the narrator Jake [End Page 127] Barnes personally but to his generation. The point can be demonstrated by considering a single aspect of the story: its subtle allusions to the pre-story past—to life "in our time" (c. 1914-22)—as they are found in café scenes, cafe names, and food.
The novel's first café scene, with Jake, Cohn, and Frances, comes in the brief opening chapter (pp. 14-15).
This quarrelsome scene at the Café Versailles alludes to Versaillles, 1919. (Imagine a post-Civil War novel narrated by a wounded vet opening at the Café Appomattox.) There was conflict at Versailles with the Germans and even more conflict among the Allies themselves. Eventually, Clemenceau and Wilson were no longer on speaking terms; Clemenceau clashed often with Lloyd George as well. Perhaps no one was kicked under a table in 1919 at Versailles, as Cohn finally kicks Jake under the table. Still, Lloyd George grabbed Clemenceau by the collar and demanded an apology for accusing him of "making false statements." Clemenceau offered to settle this matter of honor with "pistols or swords."
The places that Jake mentions to Cohn for a walking trip may also have post-war connotations. First, he suggests that they "fly to Strasbourg"
and then walk up to Ste. Odile's. The shrine of Ste. Odile, patron saint of Alsace and a patron saint of the blind, was a popular destination for men blinded in the war. (Ste. Odile is the patron saint called on repeatedly by Gertrude Stein's Mrs. Reynolds in the World War II novel of that name.) Other places that he names—"somewhere or other in Alsace," or Bruges, the Ardennes, or Senlis—were among the early scenes of the war. From the Ardennes, the site of a vast post-war military cemetery, down through Upper Alsace was the region of the disastrous (for the French) August 1914 Battle of the Frontiers. Bruges was taken by the Germans in the fall of 1914. (Located twelve miles by canal from the North Sea, it became a German submarine base, which early in the war was bombed by the British. Thirty miles away by rail is the Tyne Cot Cemetery, Passchendaele, the largest British cemetery is the world.) In their 1914 drive south towards Paris, the Germans left Senlis in flames; located twenty-four miles northeast of Paris in the First Marne Battlefield area, Senlis had its own war memorials and graveyards.
So along with climbing mountains and walking in woods, Jake may want to visit battle-fields, war cemeteries, and memorials. "Pilgrims" going on "pilgrimages" (to use the contemporary terms) to such sites was, in fact, a thriving post-World War I travel industry.
In Chapter 3, at Lavigne's restaurant, Jake, for some unstated reason, assumes that the prostitute whom he has picked up is from Liège (p. 24; Georgette is from Brussels). It was at fortified Liège in August 1914 that the Germans shocked the world by invading neutral Belgium.
Perhaps [End Page 128] he assumes that she is a war refugee and associates her (and her war-time experiences) with the Rape of Little Belgium, as it was called in the world press. Earlier, he had called her a "little girl" (p. 22).
Later that night at the Café Select, Jake, hearing of Georgette's off-stage fight at the bal musette, suddenly wants to leave. Just before departing, he asks Brett about Mike (pp. 36-37). Word of Georgette's fight may bring back to Jake a state of mind and emotions associated with the spring 1918 German offensive on the Western Front, a break-through of Caporetto-like proportions. The opening battle on the Somme was code-named by the Germans Operation Michael; it was soon followed by Operation Georgette, which took off from Flanders, Belgium. If Hemingway did not already know these names, he could have found them in Ludendorff's memoirs, which apparently he read before revising the novel.
It is interesting to note that Hemingway was in Paris in early June while the third battle of this spring offensive was threatening the capital and that the United States Marines, along with Harold Krebs of Hemingway's "Soldier's Home," were making headlines in America by holding back the Germans at Belleau Wood.
On the next morning, Jake attends a news conference at the Quai d'Orsay. This is where the Paris Peace Conference was held; after some contention, the Germans signed the Treaty at Versailles. Then he lunches with Robert Cohn at Wetzel's, a German restaurant. They quarrel about Brett. It is a matter of honor—"'I didn't ask you to insult her,'" Cohn says—although no one suggests pistols or swords. Afterwards, they walk up the street to the Café de la Paix for what may suggest an inconclusive peace settlement that has no chance of working out (pp. 46-47).
That afternoon at the Crillon, Jake drinks a Jack Rose with George the bartender (p. 48). (The drink was named for the French general, J.F. Jacqueminot [1787-1865], one of Napoleon's officers at Waterloo.) Along with the drink, George apparently offers Jake some wise words about not being "daunted." Later, in Paris, Bill mentions that he had been at the Crillon, where George had "'made me a couple of Jack Roses.'" Then Bill calls George a "great man" and mentions his philosophy of not being "daunted" (p. 79). In this novel of implication and secretive allusions to things past, a "great man" with a philosophy of not being "daunted" implies something. In fact, it sounds like the war-time rhetoric mocked during the 1920s. During the Paris Peace talks, in the spring of 1919, the Allies' delegation stayed at the Crillon (and one other hotel). Also, during the war Lloyd George and Field Marshal Haig, both called Great Men after the war, met at the Crillon in November 1917 to discuss Caporetto and Passchendaele.
Haig was certainly undaunted by the terrific and essentially futile losses at such places as the Somme 1916 and Passchendaele. Perhaps during the war George was in the bar serving to some Great Men Jack Roses—which now seems to be the only drink one can get while he is on duty—heard their philosophy of not being daunted, and never got over it.
Then Jake goes to the Café Select, where he watches Frances attack Robert Cohn. Here we learn that her mother had foolishly put her money into French war bonds (p. 56). Frances had [End Page 129] invested her visible assets in Robert Cohn; after two-and-a-half years, she now finds that her investment, not unlike her mother's in the war, yields very little (p. 54). This café scene—which concerns Frances' complaint over her meager "reparations" payment for her sacrifices—may suggest the fruits of the Versailles Treaty, which went into effect in June 1920. Clemenceau had wanted extensive and punishing reparations from the Germans for what he thought owed for France's sacrifices; two-and-a-half years later (during the fall of 1922), "Tiger" Clemenceau told young reporter Ernest Hemingway that the Treaty had been a failure.
(After a fight in Vienna, the boxer who looks like Tiger Flowers similarly does not get his money; he is fortunate, finally, to get his clothes back [p. 77].) This café scene with the formidable Frances and the rigidly controlled Cohn—who sometimes is seen as Jake's psychological double—may be emotionally wounding or at least daunting for Jake. Again he makes a sudden departure, one so sudden that it is comical. He says that he has to go into the bar to see Harvey (Harvey is up the street somewhere); then he leaves through a side door of the bar and hurries back to his flat (p. 58). Café quarrels or emotional "woundings," followed by retreats to one's room—and in Pamplona this will include Cohn and Mike—is the novel's most frequently recurring action sequence.
On Jake's next night out, he and Bill stop at an unnamed café for a drink (p. 79). Bill's suggestion that they enjoy a dinner of hard-boiled eggs is another war-time allusion. Due to the scarcity of meat during the war, eggs and potato chips was the soldiers' favorite off-duty meal; after the war, it became standard fare on menus in France, England, and Belgium.
Jake says, "'Nix'" (from the German nichts) to Bill's dining suggestion. Apparently, he uses this war-derived slang because Bill has just made a sly allusion to the war: "'Only let's not get daunted. Suppose they got any hard-boiled eggs here?'" (p. 79) As part of the novel's war/food pattern of allusions, this seems a pun on the "undaunted" Haig's name. John Keegan says that Haig was a man "deficient in human feeling"
: the silent, cold, and, we may also say, hard-boiled 'Aig, for indeed in British lore he was famously referred to by Chief of the Imperial General Staff Sir William "Wully" Robertson as 'Aig," as in, "Get 'Aig!" or "Not that 'Aig's 'eard."
Robertson was replaced late in the war by Sir Henry Wilson, whose 1922 assassination by the IRA is mentioned in Pamplona by Mike (p. 140).
As they continue down the street, they come across Brett, then proceed to the Café Lilas for a drink. Here, Jake jokingly identifies Bill to Brett as a taxidermist. "'That was in another country,' Bill said. 'And besides all the animals were dead'" (pp. 80-81). In Hemingway's fiction, "in another country" implies the country of war and death. (Bill, who says that he is a naturalist or "nature-writer," may be alluding to the millions of horses and mules killed at the front, as Hemingway does in "A Natural History of the Dead."
) It is significant that his remarks are made at the Café Lilas. In A Moveable Feast, we learn that among the regulars at the Lilas were war-veterans, some with artificial eyes or reconstructed faces—recalling the glassy-eyed stuffed animals in the [End Page 130] taxidermist's window.
The stuffed animals (somewhat comparable to the dead animals that Nick Adams sees hanging outside butcher shops in Milan in "In Another Country") may suggest the mutilated and patched up war veterans to be seen on Paris streets after the war. The proximity in the text of the doctors in "flowing robes" on the statue and the stuffed animals suggests this. (A comparable image is the "Nurses in uniform" and the one-armed war veteran in San Sebastian [p. 241]). One of these doctors, François Magendie, introduced into medical practice the use of morphine and strychnine.
And, of course, later in the evening they will walk past a war-veterans' hospital, the Val-de-Grace, in which many of those mutilated in the war resided or met in associations for disfigured veterans.
After dinner on the Ile St. Louis, Bill and Jake walk through Paris.
They climb a steep hill and, descending to the Select, they pass a café at which Jake sees a girl making potato chips and an "iron pot of stew." They then come to the Rue du Pot de Fer/Pot of Iron (p. 83). They are headed for the end of the line, the "war zone" of the café district, where Jake again will be "wounded" by Brett. (Pamplona has been seen as analogous to a war zone; Paris seems to be one, too.) So according to the logic of Imagism, "iron" here may be an allusion to the "iron rations" soldiers carried on the way to the front lines. (They were also supplied bars of chocolate. French soldiers were well supplied with wine; this may make us wonder how Count Mippipopolous, a candy store magnifico, friend of Baron Mumm, and the newspaper-image of the war profiteer, made his fortune.
) At the Café Select, they meet Brett, our lady of the bare legs, and the amorous Mike. Jake, with his a habit of imagining his friends' bedroom scenes, seems emotionally wounded. But it is minor compared to the Big Wounding he receives the next evening.
In the Paris section's last cafe scene, Jake the following evening meets Mike and Brett at the Dingo. In both French and English slang, "dingo" suggests "dizzy" or "crazy"—adjectives that in Pamplona will apply to both Jake (after being knocked unconscious by Cohn) and Cohn (Brett has made him "crazy," he says [p. 198]). In this, the Paris section's climactic scene, as Brett and Jake walk up the Rue Delambre, she wounds him deeply by telling him that she has been away with Robert Cohn (pp. 87-89). That she in a sense knocks Jake dizzy (that he "sees stars") seems suggested by the fact that Delambre was a French astronomer. A contemporary photo shows the [End Page 131] Dingo American Bar and Restaurant, with a notice listing its specialty, Bavarian food and German "Astra" beer
—although this impossibly secretive allusion may have been meant for Hemingway's Left Bank readers. Shortly after being wounded by her outside the Dingo—it is four days but less than a page later in the text—Jake is on a train, heading for a place of recuperation. Perhaps it is significant that he is wounded by her on 21 June, for he may have been wounded on the Piave line in Italy on 21 June 1918, during the big 15-24 June Austrian offensive, which featured major air battles over the lower Piave.
Both Nick Adams of the "Nick sat against the wall" vignette in In Our Time and Colonel Cantwell were wounded during this June 1918 offensive.
In Pamplona, after a trip to the corrals, Mike at a café insults Cohn—he "wounds" him emotionally—and Cohn retreats to his room. That night Jake and his friends have a drunken, rather tense dinner-party. "It was like certain dinners I remember from the war," Jake says (p. 150)—as many present images recall for him images from the war.
At noon on the opening day of the fiesta, Jake is at café in the square. The good furniture has been replaced by cast iron tables and severe folding chairs for the duration of the fiesta; to Jake, the cafe looks like "a battleship stripped for action." As he sits at this battleship-café, the exploding rockets seem to him like shrapnel bursts, and the streets suddenly are full of crowds and noise (pp. 156-57). Battleships, rockets, crowds, noise: we seem to be in an explicitly metaphorical war zone.
Another important site in Pamplona is Montoya's underground dining-room. On Friday night—as Romero sits with the group of expatriates, Jake, Brett, our lady of the bare shoulders, and the others—Montoya enters and instantly sees the situation for what it is. He ignores Jake, canceling his putative sense of aficion—and perhaps his manhood, too, which had been diminished in the war and is assaulted by Brett throughout the story (pp. 180-82). That is, here it is father-figure Montoya who wounds Jake.
Later, after returning Brett to Romero in the hotel dining-room, Jake goes to the Café Milano, then on to the Cafe Suizo (Swiss). (The suggestion may be that he travels from Milan to the war-front in the mountains.) At the Suizo, he is hit twice by Cohn and knocked unconscious under a table. At the Café Versailles, Cohn had merely kicked Jake twice under a table.
This scene is followed by his retreating, dizzy and disoriented, to his room.
At noon on the fiesta's final day, the German headwaiter on the terrace at Montoya's watches with some amusement what we might call the disorderly retreat of the British. Mike, drunk, angry, wounded by Brett, tips over a table, then retreats to his room, helped by Bill. Later, Jake will find Mike lying on his bed looking like "a death mask of himself" (pp. 211, 213-14).
After the long night of fighting (Friday), the next morning sees the running of the bulls. (Elsewhere I have suggested that the running of the bulls—"combat animals" chasing a "rear guard," Hemingway says of them in "Pamplona in July"
—through the town and out the muddy runway to the distant arena may be an allusion to the retreat from Caporetto.
) It may be pertinent to the [End Page 132] novel's food-war association that on this final day in this metaphoric war-zone Jake, sitting at a café, says that the fiesta has come to the "boiling-point"—although at least no one is "cooked," as we hear several times in Frederic's story. (Also in Frederic's story, soldiers at the front are famously compared to animals going into a slaughterhouse.) Later, the crowd "boiled over" as it headed for the bullring (p. 215). "Boiling" was a frequent war-time adjective for soldiers swarming out of the front line trenches. Furthermore, Romero's final bull of the afternoon, which that morning had killed the young farmer during the running of the bulls, is called Bocanegra (pp. 202, 201). "Bocanegra," "Black Mouth," suggests the Black Mouth of death and oblivion, but it too may be a specific war allusion. The murderous Ypres Salient was depicted as an open jaw or mouth, with the British inside it.
Soon after the Pamplona section's final wounding—Jake's discovery that Brett has gone off with Romero sends him reeling to his room and bed—Jake departs from the war-zone of Pamplona. After staying overnight in Bayonne (at the same hotel room he had stayed in after departing wounded from Paris—p. 236), he goes to San Sebastian. After "forty minutes and eight tunnels," he is in San Sebastian (p. 237). Presumably the numbers refer to the war-time forty men/eight horses French military railroad cars ("Hommes 40, chevaux 8"). His rest and recreation at San Sebastian is cut short by a telegram, delivered by a very military-looking postman, which sends him south to Madrid. There he finds that Brett has retreated to bed, emotionally wounded.
Of course, The Sun Also Rises is not the only Hemingway novel in which we find war-food associations. They can also be found in A Farewell to Arms and in For Whom the Bell Tolls, as well as in Hemingway's other city novel with a wounded war-veteran protagonist, Across the River and Into the Trees; here, the war-food/restaurant associations are frequent and obvious. But most of those in The Sun Also Rises are secretive almost to the point of invisibility. Perhaps they are too secretive. This may be one reason Hemingway was disappointed, as Wagner says, that this novel had never been fully seen for what it is.
The café/war and food/war associations demonstrate that what has "already happened" to Jake Barnes and his generation is, by implication, an important subject in this story. This complex, prose-poem novel is more a book of memory than has been recognized.
teaches in the Swiss Section of Rudumrudee International School, located in Minburi, a suburb of Bangkok, Thailand. He received his Ph.D. in English from the University of Utah in 1973. He has published twenty-five notes and articles on Hemingway, some of which have been reprinted in collections of Hemingway criticism. His E-mail address is
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Notes
. Michael Reynolds, Hemingway: The Paris Years (Norton, 1999), p. 327.
. Linda W. Wagner, "The Sun Also Rises: One Debt to Imagism," Critical Essays on Ernest Hemingway's "The Sun Also Rises," ed. James Nagel (G.K. Hall, 1995), p. 64.
. Regarding this novel's allusions to the war, it is worth noting that Paul Fussell argues that the Great War was an inescapable part of postwar poetry. For example, he says that Eliot'sThe Waste Land—with its archduke, canals, rats, dead men, crowds, its "setting of blasted landscape," its conversation about demobilization—is more a memory of the war than has been recognized. He cites similar remarks ("'This is war poetry, as much so as The Waste Land'") by Hugh Kenner on Pound's A Draft of XVI Cantos for the Beginning of a Poem of Some Length"—which, like The Sun Also Rises, was published in 1926. Paul Fussell, The Great War and Modern Memory (Oxford University Press, 1977), pp. 325-26.
. The Sun Also Rises (Simon & Schuster, 1995). All page references are to this edition.
. S.L.A. Marshall, The American Heritage History of World War I (Simon & Schuster, 1964), p. 367.
. In "A Paris-to-Strasbourg Flight" (1922) we get a view from the air of the terrain they would see near St. Mihiel: "the old [American] 1918 front," with "trenches zig-zagging through a field pocked with shell holes." Ernest Hemingway, By-Line: Ernest Hemingway, ed. William White (Touchstone, 1998), p. 43.
. Barbara Tuchman, The Guns of August (Ballantine Books, 1994), pp. 401, 423; Martin Gilbert (citing the 1917 Michelin Guide to Marne Battlefields), First World War(HarperCollins, 1994), p. 66.
. Gilbert, First World War, p. 533; Jay Winter and Blaine Baggett, The Great War and the Shaping of the 20th Century (Penguin, 1966), p. 156.
. There must be some reason that Jake associates her with Liège; perhaps it is her mouth, a "wonderful lot of dental wreckage," he says in the manuscript. Liège, with its forts, destroyed, smashed, wrecked by the Germans, was the portcullis guarding the narrow gateway or mouth that led into the Belgium plains. The quote is in James Hinkle, "'Dear Mr. Scribner,'" Hemingway Review, VI (1986), p. 58. Soon after Liège, Brussels was taken without military resistance.
. General Erich Ludendorff's My War Memories 1914-1918 had been published in English in 1920. In a December 1925 letter to Fitzgerald, Hemingway mentions having sent him "the Ludendorff" book. In a later December 1925 letter to Fitzgerald, he lists four recently published German books on the war that he is sending away for. Matthew J. Bruccoli,Fitzgerald and Hemingway: A Dangerous Friendship (Carroll & Graf, 1995), pp. 36 and 42. Near the end of A Farewell to Arms, Frederic, while eating at a café, reads about the breakthrough on the British front—Operation Georgette—then suddenly senses that he must get back to the hospital; there he finds that Catherine, his British nurse, is dying.
. Leon Wolff, In Flanders Fields: The 1917 Campaign (Time Inc., 1963), p. 380.
. James Mellow, Hemingway: A Life Without Consequences (Perseus Books, 1993), p. 192.
. Fussell, p. 316.
. Keegan, The First World War (Pimlico, 1999), p. 485.
. Wolff, pp. 69, 251; Marshall, 214; A.J.P. Taylor, The First World War: An Illustrated History (Penguin, 1972), p. 167. Taylor provides other "famous words" by Robertson. When Gen. Sir Horace Smith-Dorrien protested against what he considered a foolish order to attack, Robertson dismissed him: "'Orace, you're for 'ome.'" Taylor, p. 83.
. "The number of dead horses and mules shocked me; human corpses were all very well, but it seemed wrong for horses to be dragged into the war like this." Robert Graves, Good-Bye to All That (Doubleday, 1998), p. 209. "The poor horses!" Franz Marc exclaimed in a letter from Verdun shortly before he was killed. Alistair Horne, The Price of Glory: Verdun 1916 (Penguin 1997), p. 150; Martin, First World War, p. 235.
. Ernest Hemingway, A Moveable Feast (Arrow Books, 1994), p. 70.
. Isaac Asimov, Asimov's Biographical Encyclopedia of Science and Technology (Doubleday, 1964), p. 211.
. In fact, the first society for mutilated war vets in France was started at this hospital in 1921. Winter and Baggett, pp. 369-70.
. Landscape, too, suggests memories of the pre-story past in The Sun Also Rises. For instance, during this after dinner walk in Paris with Bill, Jake sees "Across the river were the broken walls of old houses" (82): this is a war image from a 1922 Hemingway newspaper article, "A Veteran Visits His Old Front," which also appears in the stories of Frederic Henry and Colonel Cantwell. Ernest Hemingway, Dateline: Toronto, ed. William White (Scribner's, 1985), p. 177; A Farewell to Arms (Simon & Schuster, 1995), p. 45; Across the River and Into the Trees (Arrow Books, 1995), p. 14. Then, near the Quai de Bethune (British-held Bethune was a war town on the Western Front) Jake sees Notre Dame "squatting" in the distance downriver (p. 83): during the war "squatting" was a newspaper term of derision for the titanic stationary armies on the Western Front; Wolff, pp. 18, 173, 283. In fact, Hemingway had used the term in a cluster of war-images in a December 1923 newspaper article, "Christmas at the Top of the World." Immediately after mentioning buses rumbling through the snowy Paris streets, resembling "green juggernauts," the article's persona says that down the river Notre Dame "squats in the dusk." Then, the young couple in the article walk up the Rue Bonaparte to the Rue Jacob, where at a hotel restaurant they "attack" the potatoes and "attack" their Christmas turkey. By-Line, pp. 130-31. At the corrals in Pamplona, Jake sees "Beyond the river" crowds of people lining the old fortifications; the apertures in the corral wall look to him "like loopholes" (through which guns were fired at the front line trenches); later the picadors' pics resemble the "lances" of cavalrymen (pp. 142-43, 216). Many other examples could be cited.
. In Hemingway's "The Hotels in Switzerland" (1922), the fat war profiteers made their big money and secured their questionable titles by selling "blankets and wine to the army." By-Line, p. 19.
. Bruccoli, p. 3.
. Gilbert, First World War, p. 434.
. Across the River and Into the Trees, p. 12.
. The date of the Ledoux fight in Paris is Monday, 20 June (p. 86)—a fictional date, as it is not found on a 1924 or 1925 calendar, but possibly the anniversary of Jake's wounding in the war. If we were to go by this Ledoux calendar, then Cohn would knock Jake out at the Café Suzio on 8 July, the anniversary date of Hemingway's own war wounding.
. By-Line, pp. 105 and 102.
. William Adair, "The Sun Also Rises: The Source of A Farewell to Arms," American Notes and Queries: A Quarterly Journal of Short Articles, Notes, and Reviews, XII (1999), p. 26.
. At the Ypres Salient (Belgium), the war's biggest killing ground, the Germans were positioned on high ground on three sides of the British; the salient was depicted in German newspapers as being shaped like a human skull with open jaws ready to devour the British; Wolff, p. 129; Marshall, 76. Or, "Black Mouth"—perhaps at the corrals it was Bocanegra that exploded from his box (inside the …